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Views taken on and near the river Rhine, at Aix la Chapelle, and on river Maese
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24

HINTS of OCCURRENCES, &c.

or the mifreprefentations, avarice, and treachery of the few deteftable individuals, to whom he confidently, and withmuch feeming reafon, imputed the innumerable calamities that have arifen to this country from the American war.

He informed us, that the mafter of the Bois Verd, at whofe houfe we had taken up our abode, was himfelf veryfuperior to the generality of perfons in his ftation or employment; that he had three daughters who were extreme-ly handfome and accomplifhed, and to whom, if we approved it, he would introduce us. My fellow travellertook upon him, without hefitation, to anfwer for us both; and the ladies, attended by their father, were announced,by our military friend, before I had time to adjufi; my cravat, or even to examine the pofition of my wig.

I should here, perhaps, refign my pen; and leave it to my companion, as better fuited to his age, to defcribe theladies: but though I did not contemplate them with the fenfibility of nineteen, I am not lefs difpofed to do juftice totheir beauty and accomplilhments. They were certainly handfome and agreeable; had good voices, and fung veryprettily; one of them indeed with great tafte. They played likewife on the virginal, a ftringed inftrument, whichformerly was much ufed in England. Its tones are a medium between the piano forte (which it refembles in form)and the harpfichord. The old gentleman procured me a violin, and being himfelf a performer, we made out atolerable concert. This, with a free admifiion to the ladies of the houfe who fpoke French, an accomplifhment notcommon even among the bell educated women in this part of the country, made our time pafs very pleafantly.

In the article of provifions, I was here, as in every other place we patted through in Germany, very indifferentlyaccommodated. The extravagant ufe of vinegar in their cookery, which I could not prevail on the German cooks,either by commands or entreaties, to omit, was a circumftance which fubje&ed me to much inconvenience and fomemortification; for the diforder that induced me to undertake the tour, being ftimulated by the flighted ufe of acids,I had often no alternative but to abflain altogether from eating, or to fuffer extremely for a very moderate grati-fication of my appetite. My health indeed was fo little benefited by the exercife and change of climate, recom-mended by my medical advifers in London, that I began ferioufly to wifh myfelf within reach of the waters ofHarrowgate, or Aix-la-Chapelle; from either of which Doctor Tilfot, the phyfician who attended me at Laufanne,gave me great hopes of recovery. He advifed me, however, to try any other mineral fprings that might fall in myway, before I could reach either of thofe places.

The firft opportunity of following this part of his prefcription, occurred at St. Goar, where the Schwalbachwater was fold at three halfpence a quart. I made an immediate trial of its virtue, beginning with a fmall quantity,and increafing it gradually to two quarts a day; which I continued to take till I arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle; it being

fold