120

BONN.

our after-stroll througli the streetsof the town—whichis all outthe size of St. Peter's in Guernscy—for the thoroughfares liavemuch of the unpleasantness of Cologne—being narrow, knubbly,and not particularly sweet pathways, and lacking Cologne'spicturesqueness to redeem them. Moreover, there is not thesame show of churches here as at the Holy City—whose manytowers look from a distance like a set of carved chessmen;nor the same crowcl of people Walking in the middle of tliestreets; nor, indeed, anything peculiar, to give a distinctivemark to the place—with the exception that at the hack of theUniversity almost evcry other shop is a Buch - handlung(bookseller's) or a Buch-auction, or a Buch-binderei, and thatthe Windows of some of the " magazins" there are set outwith gigantic padded gauntlets, made after the fashion ofcricketers' gloves, but with stuffed white-leathern cuffs toreach half up the arm. These are for the Coming crop ofGerman philosophers to play single-stick in. Then, again,the " Bairisch-Bier" shops are filled in the evening withdense fogs of tobacco-smoke, and swarms of students workinghard at billiards, and the " AlUe de Popplesdorf" is throngedwith the University-youths on a Sunday afternoon, strollingsix abreast; and the cemetery is set with the graves of boyskilled in duels—while many of the lads that you see rushingalong of a morning, with a portfolio under their arm, havecaps not unlike those worn by the French omnibus-conductors,but made some in red cloth, and some in green, others inwhite, and others again in blue, in order to mark that theyare members of the " Khenish," or " Prussian," or " Alle-manian," or some other Student society.

The Cathedra!, as the principal church (Muensteb Kieche)in Bonn is sometimes called, is, after "the Dom," a mostungainly bit of masonry. Its many spires, one at each of thefour corners, and an enormous marling-spike affair in the