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The Upper Rhine : Mayence to the Lake of Constance
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304

DOMESTIC MANNEES OF TUE PEUSSIANS.

part of the Abbey of All Saints, the edifice itself dating asfax back as the llth Century. It is not only remarkablefor its antiquity, but for being a pure specimen of theByzantine or round-arch style of architecture; and, thoughhardly handsome, makes up in massiveness what it wantsin beauty. The other Square tower seen in the print belongsto St. Johannes-kirclie; this is in the Front Lane, or Vorder-gasse, and is said to be the largest church in Switzerland.

The houses beside the water are rudish structures, builton the river walls, and have much the look of the buildingsflanking some of the more quiet Dutch canals. The greaternumber of these are tanneries, and have brown leathern skinshanging, either over their wooden balconies or out of theirWindows.

A little way farther down the river than is visible inthe print, the water is striped with the tops of the mill-dams,and the surface white with the fretting of the current pastits many impediments.

The bridge itself is one of ordinary construction, butStands in the place of a celebrated wooden one—burnt, ofcourse, by the French in 1799 — which was of a single-archspan, though the breadth of the river is here upwards of350 feet, the architect having been a poor Swiss carpenternamed Grubenmann.

The costumes of the people are those mostly of theSchwarz-wald —a mere sleeveless bodice being worn, andthe hair dressed in long plaited tails behind. The pictur-esque though lazy ox-wagon still constitutes the principaltraffic of the streets—even though Schaff hausen, from itsmany surrounding mills, has a more busy aspect than themajority of the Rhenish towns.