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The Upper Rhine : Mayence to the Lake of Constance
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FKEIBUKG.

189

if it had been sorae fairy-like piece of polar architecture thatthe icebergs are said occasionally to represent, while theunglazed long-lancet Windows to tlie tower appeared to havetheir tracery filled with sheets of polished metal.

Indeed the Dom at Freiburg is a rare bit of architecturalelegance. The porch to the front entrance is as finely carvedalmost as that of Strasburg—the ribs of its deep arch beingembossed all over with statuettes, and the stained Windows ofthe interior even more handsome and gorgeous pei-haps thanthose of the Alsatian Münster, while the old carved screensand pulpits, and early German altar-pieces, with which thedifferent chapels are ornamented, are rieh bits of mediaevalbeauty.

The Münster Platz, or space round about the Cathedra!,is worth visiting also, for the peculiarity of the costumes onesees congregated at the spot. This is the prineipal market-place, and the head-dresses of the peasants here are of theinost peculiar character. Most of the women wear two hugeblack ribbon bows perched right on the crown of the head,each bow being spread out fan-shape, and the two togetherseeming like the enormous wings of a gigantic black butterflythat has settled on top of the skull. This is the true Mar-gravia or Breisgau fashion—the Catholics wearing the bowsembroidered with gold at the back, and the Protestants pre-ferring them piain. Other women, again, have straw hats ofa most mascuüne shape, poised as it were on the head, andbright red handkerchiefs tied over their ears, while long Swisstails bann; down the back in double Chinese fashion, and aretied with ribbon, that reacb.es literally down to the heels.One market-woman we saw had come out very strong in abright red leather hat, and though in our "little village" shewould have been mobbed, still, in the streets of the quietFreiburg, she attracted not the least attention whatever. Then,