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The Upper Rhine : Mayence to the Lake of Constance
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HEIDELBERG.

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only to eat dry brcad as an exilcd queen, but to liave toheg it first.

At the end of the flower-garden, and at the corner ofthe "English Palace" facing the Neckar, is to be seen thewell-]ike stump of "der dicke Thurm" (the thick tower), which,though the walls are twenty-two feet in thickness, was bat-tered down almost to the root by the French in 1689. Thiswas formerly the hall in which the fetes of Frederick V. weregiven, and the statue of the Elector, with that of his brotherLouis V., are still standing in the niches, half-covered with ivy.

Continuing the path towards the court-yard of the Castle,we pass the principal gateway, with the red rusted teeth ofits portcullis still peeping from below the arch.

And no sooner do we enter the quadrangle than we standenvironed with palaces; built by as many diffcrent Electorsas there are wings, and all clisplaying the various tastes oftheir founders, as well as being enriched with the architecturalgraces of successive centuries. Ilere the walls are as redalmost as cornelian, and the fretted and sculptured facades, thework of which is nearly as sharp as if it were finished but yes-terday, are an encyclopaedia of the several styles of the agesin which they were respectively erected; and even thoughthe courtyard is now like a hcath, and each red palace isbut an open shell of walls, it could hardly have appearedmore beautiful or more grand when it was fresh from themason's chisel; for there is always a half pathos about aruin, that (even if the breaking up of the outlines, and themellowing of the tints —together with all the startling anti-theses of peace and war, pomp and rubbish, which time linkstogether in such a place — did not serve to lend it extrabeauty in decay) would at least make it at once interestingand impressive as a monument of the mere changes of forttune since the laying of its first stone.